Waves occur in the sea.

The frictional drag between the sea and the wind causes turbulence with the waves and eddying. This creates high pressure areas called troughs, and high pressure areas called crests.

Factors of Wave Energy[edit | edit source]

Breaking wave - swash and backwash

Waves have different levels of energy, and there are a number of factors that affect this.

Wind speed: wind is created when air that has a large pressure rushes in to air that has low pressure. Greater strength wind will get created if there is a greater difference in pressure.

Wind duration: eventually, the difference in pressure in air will equalize, stopping the wind. The longer the wind blows, more energy will be produced.

Fetch: the fetch is the distance over which the wave has traveled. If the fetch is greater, the waves have more energy.

Wave Refraction[edit | edit source]

This is caused when waves approach the shore and slow down when they reach shallower waters and ground.

It causes wave fronts to parallel the shape of the coastline as they approach the shore and encounter ground. Wave refraction can cause wave energy to concentrate on headlands and preferentially erode them rather than the bays.

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